Climbing

Climbing opportunities near Schofield Pass consist mostly of peak climbs and summit hikes, rather than vertical rock climbing (though the Outward Bound school near Marble has developed a few small cliffs that we’ll share about here after we’ve done more research.)

The area you’ll climb in is known as the Elk Mountains and West Elk Mountains, a subset of Colorado’s huge Sawatch range that leads to the Continental Divide about 30 miles to the east. If you’re used to climbing the solid granite of ranges such as Wyoming’s Wind Rivers or California’s Sierra, the loose sometime perilous rock of the Elks will surprise you — even scare you. If you’re uncomfortable with loose rock, stick to trade routes that have had much rubble knocked away over the years. Better still, climb the Elk Range peaks during the spring snow season, when the slag is covered by a blanket of white. During spring you can explore the hundreds of steep snow-climbs, ski routes, and mixed snow and rock climbs that attract climbers to the Elks year after year.

The area’s most popular peak climb is Snowmass Mountain. At 14,092 feet, Snowmass is included in Colorado’s 54 famous “fourteeners” — our mountains that loft over 14,000 feet.

All climbs of Snowmass Mountain from the Schofield Pass side (and thus covered here on SchofieldPass.com) start from the Leadking Basin Loop Road (see our 4×4 routes page). A higher clearance “SUV” type vehical can usually reach the trailhead, but a modicum of skill with driving rough roads is advisable.

There are two route choices for Snowmass Mountain. The safer yet longer option is to backpack over Trailrider Pass, camp at Snowmass Lake, and climb up through the big low angled “snowmass” snow bowl to the summit. The more dangerous yet shorter option is to do the west flank of the mountain by continuing north from Geneva Lake, instead of swinging east to Trailrider Pass. The west flank route is dangerous because of steep loose rock. At least one person has died on the route and several have been injured. Nonetheless, climbers with the requisite technique and experience find the route to be a reasonable alternative to the Trailrider backpack.

For details, please consult guidebooks such as Dawson’s Gude to Colorado’s Fourteeners.

Not up for a huge fourteener covered by loose rock? How about a short hike/climb that’s more about wildflowers and views than about altitude? Arkansas Mountain is a good bet for such. Again, use the Leadking Loop Road to reach your trailhead (see below for our SchofieldPass.com trailhead descriptions), only this time you’ll park at the Leadking Divide, just before the road begins dropping into LeadKing Basin. Simply head northerly up mellow slopes, stick to the highground, and you’ll soon reach the summit of Arkansas Mountain.

Click here to download a .GPX file of this route for your GPS — remember to set GPS to WGS-84.

SchofieldPass.com Trailheads
The lower route to Lead King Basin takes a fairly rough 4×4 route that follows the Schofield Pass jeep trail up past the town of Crystal (a small group of old buildings and summer residences). Follow signs through Marble for the Crystal & Schofield Pass Road. Continue 5.6 miles to Crystal(narrow road, 4-wheel-drive or high clearance 2-wheel-drive.) Park 2-wheel-drive in an aspen tree grove just past Crystal (9,000’). On foot or with 4-wheel-drive, continue up the Schofield Pass Road .5 miles to an obvious and usually well signed intersection. Take the left (N) fork (the Lead King Basin Road) and follow it 1.5 miles to the trailhead on the west side of Lead King Basin at 9,700 feet. The trailhead signs are screened from parking by a few trees, but easy to find once you’re out of your car. This section of road is awfully rough, and better walked by all but expert 4-wheel-drive enthusiasts. Winter closure is at Marble. The road opens to Crystal sometime in late May or early June, while the road into Lead King Basin melts out sometime in June.

For the upper route to Lead King, again head through Marble and get on the Schofield Pass Road. As you drive out of Marble you’ll pass Beaver Lake on your right, then soon start up a steep ¾ mile grade known as Daniels Hill. At the top of Daniels Hill leave the Schofield Pass road by turning left on another dirt road at an obvious intersection that usually has excellent signs. It’s 7 miles to the Lead King trailhead from the intersection at the top of Daniels Hill. The dirt road is moderately rough, not really what you’d call a 4-wheel-drive trail, but it becomes dangerous and impassable if muddy from rain or snow melt. Of more concern is a heady series of switchbacks that drop you into Lead King from a high pass midway along the route. Descending these requires excellent mountain driving skills, a vehicle with good brakes, and the discipline not to rubberneck the amazing views.